Measure what this faucet is losing
Collect the drip
Place a graduated container under the spout for five or ten minutes. Measure the steady drip, not the few drops that may fall just after the handle closes.
Find the hourly volume
Divide the collected amount by the number of minutes, then multiply by 60. Keep the units consistent.
Estimate the billing-period total
Multiply the hourly amount by the hours per day and number of days the faucet actually drips.
Use the current bill
Apply the utility's water and wastewater units, tiers, and rates. Local billing structures differ, so a generic national dollar figure is not reliable.
Notice exactly where and when it leaks
| Leak location | Likely area to inspect |
|---|---|
| From the spout while the handle is off | A model-specific washer, seal, cartridge, ceramic disc, valve seat, or ball-style control. |
| Around a handle during use | A stem seal, O-ring, cartridge, retaining part, or handle assembly. |
| At the aerator, hose, or spray head | A loose connection, damaged seal, cracked part, or incorrect assembly. |
| Below the sink only while water runs | A faucet inlet, spray hose, drain connection, faucet body, or water crossing the sink deck. |
| Below the sink even when the faucet is off | A pressurized shutoff, supply connector, faucet inlet, or valve-body leak that should be isolated promptly. |
Why it helps to compare hot and cold
On a two-handle faucet, see which handle changes the drip. On a single-handle faucet, handle position and safely isolating one supply may help, but the internal water path depends on the model. Do not force an old fixture shutoff just to run this check.
A hot-side drip draws replacement water into the water heater. Its energy cost depends on the leak volume, incoming water temperature, heater type, and settings. The useful next step is to stop the leak, not to rely on a universal energy estimate.
Match the repair to the faucet you have
- Find the brand and model from markings, paperwork, photographs, or the manufacturer's parts lookup.
- Determine whether the faucet uses compression washers, a cartridge, ceramic discs, a ball-style mechanism, or another design. There is no universal drip repair.
- Match washers, cartridges, O-rings, seals, seats, and aerators to the exact model. Similar-looking parts may not seal or flow the same way.
- Inspect the body and mounting for cracks or corrosion that an internal repair part cannot correct.
- After repair, run hot and cold water, dry every connection, and recheck the spout, handles, cabinet, shutoffs, and drain.
When replacement may make more sense
Repair remains attractive
Replacement deserves comparison
The body and mounting are sound, and the correct repair part is available.
The body is cracked, badly corroded, or leaking from an area the manufacturer does not service.
One accessible wear part explains the drip.
Repairs have become frequent or the model-specific parts are unavailable.
The faucet still fits the sink and household needs.
The mounting is unstable, the faucet no longer suits the use, or surrounding connections need major work.
Normal flow returns after cleaning or repair.
A compatible bathroom replacement is wanted for independently certified WaterSense efficiency and performance. [2]